VillaBlå

Eat and drink

Around the table in Ystad

The food scene around Ystad sits at an unusual crossroads. A working harbour town with a Michelin Bib Gourmand kitchen. Half‑timbered courtyards from the 1500s now housing wine bars and bakeries. A regional cuisine built around eel‑smoking, apple‑pressing, and the long Skåne love of beet root. And a young Swedish wine industry that has roughly four‑fifths of its national production within a 45‑minute drive.

What follows is what is open, what is worth ordering, and when to go. Distances are measured from Fjädergränd 10; price marks are € (under 200 SEK a head), €€ (200–500), €€€ (500+).

In town

Ystad: restaurants

JH Matbar

Stora Östergatan 34 · €€€

Michelin Bib Gourmand. Modern Nordic from Christoffer and Malin Jedenstam. 90 percent Swedish produce, in‑house herbs April to October. Tue–Sat from 17:30. Book a week ahead in summer. Order the sharing plates and let the kitchen lead.

Tumült

Björnstjernegatan 5 · €€€

Daniel Müllern, twice an Årets Kock finalist. Sharing‑plate format in a converted stable. The weekly plates are the reason to come.

Le Petit Bistrot

Stora Östergatan 32 · €€

Family‑run French bistro since 2021. Crister Svantesson, his daughter Jennie, son‑in‑law Jonas. Escargots à la bourguignonne, minute steak, wine taken seriously. Booking essential on weekends.

Store Thor

Stortorget 18 · €€–€€€

A 14th‑century cellar restaurant with a summer terrace on the square. Grilled fish and Skåne‑inflected classics. Opens 11:30 most days.

Möllers Bryggeri

Långgatan 20 · €€

Brewery‑restaurant in a half‑timbered former malting that ran as such until 1971. Own light and dark beers, large protected courtyard. Order the brewer's plate.

Upp Eller Ner

Stortorget 11 · €€

Grill room above, cellar pub below. Tartare, fish soup, Kalix roe. The terrace is one of Ystad’s best people‑watching spots.

Grändens Mat

Besökaregränd 3, Per Helsas Gård · €€

Inside the 16th‑century half‑timbered courtyard. Slow Swedish home cooking and Asian poké bowls in the same kitchen, which sounds wrong and works.

Bar & Brygga

Segelgatan 1 · €€–€€€

Harbour‑side by the marina. Seasonal menu, well‑judged wine list. One of the better summer‑evening rooms if you land an outdoor table at sunset.

Restaurang Marinan

Segelgatan 11 · €€

Right on the small‑boat harbour. The vräkmacka (a shrimp sandwich the size of a forearm) is the dish people drive in for.

Port at Ystad Saltsjöbad

Saltsjöbadsvägen 6 · €€€

Main dining room of the resort, sea views from every table. French‑Nordic, à la carte from 17:30. Weekend brunch is locally famous.

Saluhallen Ystad

Stora Västergatan 3 · €€

The restored 1904 market hall, now a restaurant and Friday‑Saturday venue from 23:00. Lunch and three‑course dinner during the week.

Havsnära Fiskrökeri

Segelgatan 17 · €€

Family smokehouse on the beach just west of the marina. Smoked salmon, fried herring with mashed potato. Outdoor seating in season.

Coffee and bread

Cafés and bakeries

Söderberg & Sara

Österportstorg 1 · €

White Guide. Coffee from Solde Malmö. Cardamom buns, sourdough, mornings only for the full selection.

Fridolfs Konditori

Lingsgatan 3 · €

Old‑style konditori from the Wallander films. The cinnamon buns are the point.

Maria Caféet

On Stortorget · €

Konditori with a view of Sankta Maria kyrka. Sandwiches, hot lunch plates, traditional cakes.

Möllers Bageri & Konditori

Regementsgatan 15 · €

Over a hundred years in continuous operation. Breakfast buffet 07–11 (08 Sundays). Wienerbröd warm from the morning bake.

Tildas Bakeri

Regementsgatan 12 · €

Small family bakery, real butter, large allergy‑friendly selection. Tue–Fri 09–17, Sat 09–14.

Tildas Kafé & Konfekt

Per Helsas Gård · €

The current café inside Per Helsas Gård, opened December 2024 by Terese Karlsson. Courtyard seating in season.

Olof Viktors

Österlenvägen 86, Glemmingebro · €

25 minutes east. Bakery, patisserie and café in a four‑wing farm courtyard. Martin Morand is Sweden's European Pâtisserie Champion (Coupe du Monde 2018). White Guide Best Café 2013. Daily.

Kärnhuset, Kiviks Musteri

Karakåsvägen 45, Kivik · €€

Restaurant inside the cider works. Seasonal Österlen plates, large outdoor seating, combine with the apple‑house tour.

Kaffestugan Annorlunda

Stenshuvudsvägen 58, Stenshuvud · €

Fixed‑price cake buffet, eight kinds, since 1956. Coffee from a pot.

Worth the drive

Out in Österlen

Talldungen Gårdshotell

Bengtemöllevägen 7, Brösarp · €€€

35 min. Restaurant‑with‑rooms in a beech grove four kilometres from Haväng beach. On‑site bakery, large wine list. The Spisarpaket is the way to do it properly.

Hotel Svea / Restaurang Piraten

Strandvägen 3, Simrishamn · €€

30 min. Sea‑view dining room with windows directly onto the water. Orange‑cured duck, whole‑roasted flounder.

Allé på Österlen

Kivik · €€€

35 min. Boutique hotel and restaurant near Stenshuvud. Kitchen follows the local growing year strictly.

Sandhammarens Fyrgrill

Sandhammarvägen 7, Löderup · €

25 min. By the lighthouse. Daily weekday lunch 11–14:30, longer summer menu. Excellent shrimp sandwich.

Hörte Brygga

Dybäck 465, Skivarp · €€€

25 min west. Star Wine List "Sustainable Wine List of the Year Sweden 2025". No booking, no takeaway. June–September only.

Kåseberga Fisk / Ahls Rökeri

Ales Väg 34, Kåseberga · €–€€

20 min east. Smoked over open alder fires in brick ovens, same way since 1968. Three generations. Hot‑smoked salmon roll, fried herring on the pier. Arrive before 11:00 or after 16:00.

Ingelsta Kalkon

Road 11, Smedstorp · €€

25 min. Turkey from their own farm in every form since 1984. Useful family option with a playground.

Eriksgården

Outside Sjöbo · €€

30 min. Berry farm with restaurant and farm shop. The berry buffet in season is the local children’s destination.

Tolånga 17 Gårdskrog

Outside Sjöbo · €€

35 min. Farm restaurant with a serious butcher’s shop. The Sunday lunch is the move.

Kaffestugan Annorlunda

Stenshuvud · €

50 min. See above. Worth the drive for the cake buffet and the walking trails outside.

Wine

Vineyards within an hour

Skåne now has roughly twenty working vineyards on the official Vinvägen wine route, and farm‑gate sales became legal in June 2025. You can finally buy a bottle directly from the producer. Several of those below sit inside an hour of the door.

  • Köpingsbergs Vingård

    Köpingsbergsvägen 183, Köpingebro

    15 min east. The world’s northernmost sparkling‑wine producer using the traditional method. Three hectares, south‑facing slope. Tastings July and parts of August; book at +46 701 46 71 17.

  • Domän Sånana

    Hävdavägen 36, Borrby

    30 min east. Founded by pioneer Percy Månsson. Sparkling, Solaris, Souvignier Gris. Group tastings by booking.

  • Skepparps Vingård

    Haväng, north of Kivik

    40 min. Producing wine since 2011, four hectares, ~25–30,000 bottles. Vinordic medals 2020, Skåne Wine Prize 2021. Hosts the Swedish Wine Festival end of July.

  • Ekesåkra Vingård (formerly Österlenvin)

    Near Sandhammaren

    25 min. Producing since 2002, one of Österlen’s pioneers. Group tastings six or more, book on the site.

  • Hällåkra Vingård

    South of Anderslöv

    45 min west. 6.5 hectares, five generations of the Hansson family. Red, white, sparkling, sweet. On‑site restaurant in season.

  • Vingården i Klagshamn

    South of Malmö

    55 min west. Lena Jörgensen and Murat Sofrakis. Solaris, Rondo, Cabernet Cortis. Fertilised with Malmö seaweed and local horse manure.

  • Flädie Mat & Vingård

    Bjärred

    70 min north‑west. The closest serious vineyard‑with‑restaurant in the region. Full restaurant Fri–Sat 16:30; tastings same hours.

Cider, beer, spirits

Other things to drink

  • Kiviks Musteri

    Karakåsvägen 45, Kivik

    Five generations since 1888, ~200,000 visitors a year. Musts, ciders, Calvados‑style apple spirits. Apple House guided walk through the orchards. Tastings with Skåne tapas.

  • Möllers Bryggeri

    Långgatan 20, Ystad

    In‑town brewery (see Restaurants). Own beers plus rotating guest taps.

  • Skepparps Vingård cider

    Haväng

    See wineries. Their Österlen apple cider has multiple Vinordic medals, a drier, more elegant style than the Kiviks line.

  • Spirit of Hven Distillery

    Backafallsbyn, Ven (the island)

    90 min plus a 25‑min ferry from Landskrona. Founded 2008. Whisky, gin, vodka, aquavit from local grain. 45‑min guided tours; whisky bar and cottages on site.

Take home

Smokehouses, fishmongers, markets

  • Kåseberga Fisk / Ahls Rökeri

    Ales Väg 34, Kåseberga

    See Out in Österlen. Smoked over open alder fires since 1968. Take home a side of hot‑smoked salmon.

  • Havsnära Fiskrökeri

    Segelgatan 17, Ystad

    The Ystad smokehouse. Hot‑smoked mackerel and herring to take home for the house.

  • Saturday market

    Stortorget

    Vendors set up 08:30–09:30, Mon–Sat. Saturday is the big day. Berries June–August, apples and root vegetables September–November.

  • Olof Viktors Shop

    Glemmingebro

    Bread, croissants, jams, pickles, vinegars. Closes earlier than the café, check before driving out for an evening loaf.

  • Ingelsta Kalkon Gårdsbutik

    Smedstorp

    Turkey pastrami, sausage, smoked breast. Most of Skåne’s premium kitchens use them.

  • Tolånga 17 butcher

    Outside Sjöbo

    The serious place for local beef, lamb, charcuterie if you are cooking at home.

Where I would send my parents

Five picks

  1. JH Matbar if they like good wine and small plates, and they don’t mind a quiet 19:30 start. Modern Nordic at its most coherent.
  2. Hotel Svea in Simrishamn for a sea‑view dinner that costs roughly half of Ystad Saltsjöbad and serves the better Skåne classics. Drive out, walk the harbour, eat at 18:00.
  3. Talldungen in Brösarp if they want to stay overnight. Beech woods, an honest cellar, in‑house bread, no need to drive anywhere after the first glass.
  4. Olof Viktors in Glemmingebro for an unhurried Sunday morning. Coffee in the courtyard, three pastries between two people, a loaf to take back.
  5. Kåseberga Fisk for a windy Tuesday lunch. Fried herring on the terrace, smoked salmon to take home, a walk up to Ales stenar afterwards. The most Skåne thing one can do in a single afternoon.

Cared for by Dennis, Linn and the boys